Obtaining an affordable, easy and manageable dye job may seem like a daunting task. With today’s economy, many have decided to DIY when it comes to beauty and haircare — whether it be an at-home manicure, or, what we’re here to talk about today, dying our hair without running to the salon. The secret to a great dye job that anyone can achieve involves three steps: selecting the right color, applying the color evenly and, finally, maintaining the color. Read on as we discover the best products to get the job done from some of the hair industry’s most reputable stylists.

The first step usually involves running to our stylist for assistance, but it doesn’t have to be. Walking into any hair dye aisle in the drugstore can be scary, but if you keep one major rule in mind the aisle somehow becomes less intimidating: The most important concept when deciding on a color is that at-home coloring kits have limitations.

Frédéric Fekkai, who recently launched Salon Color — a line of at-home hair dyes, advises that “you should never go more than 2 shades lighter or darker than your natural color.” When we stray too far we usually end up needing color correction at a salon. Clairol Professional colorist Nico also warns that dye reacts differently on “virgin” hair than previously color-treated hair. On color-treated hair the dye will show up with a “darker and more vibrant hue.” Keep this in mind and finding a color should only be a struggle due to indecisiveness.

Next is the actual application. Nico shared some great product tips on how to achieve the best results. He recommends using Clairol’s Beautiful Collection Semi-Permanent Hair Color. This product is gentle, “simple and intuitive.” Another tip is to apply Vaseline or moisturizer to the skin around the hairline to prevent color staining. This is crucial for any color job, but more important when you are going darker. Lastly, colorists suggest using a bowl and brush application procedure like salons do. These types of products are available at beauty supply stores and according to Fekkai give “consistent, even results.”

 Finally, after all that work, those salon worthy tresses must stay healthy and maintained. This is often the step that can make or break a look. Here is where the brilliance of keeping the dye close to your natural color comes in. Because at-home color has limitations, the roots are not as visible as a brunette going platinum. This means more time between touch-ups and less work. Both great things! If you need routine touch-ups, Clairol’s Nice ‘N Easy Root Touch-Up is a great product. Also, for a faster solution, our favorite editors at Allure recommend Colormark Temporary Liquid Hair Color Wand. According to these ladies it is “easy to paint on and amazingly natural.”

Simplicity is often the easiest way to master something and these tips should break down the complexity of the at-home hair dye dilemma. Master the basics and you will have great, affordable hair color for life!

- Yiannoula Choros

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Photo via Richard Perry/New York Times

The Brazilian Blowout controversy rages on as California lawmakers demand that the manufacturers of the Brazilian Blowout and Acai Professional Smoothing Solution, GIB LCC, put warning labels on their packaging.

We covered the Brazilian Blowout dispute back in 2010, when word got out that a stylist in Oregon claimed that they experienced difficulty breathing, eye irritation and nose bleeds when applying the Brazilian Blowout products which consist of 8-10% formaldehyde (a carcinogen), according to the Occupational Safety and Health Administration.

Since then, companies — not including GIB LCC — have launched alternative hair-smoothing methods claiming that they are formaldehyde-free, like the Simply Smooth Keratin treatment we mentioned in a past article. Again, not all hair smoothing treatments are the same as the ones manufactured by GIB.

In a recent Women’s Wear Daily article, they stated that this past Monday the California Safe Cosmetics Act — which, according to Attorney General Kamala Harris, “…protect[s] consumers and workers and give[s] them fair notice about the health risks associated with the products they use” — enforced its first governmental action by demanding that GIB LCC adhere to the following stipulations:

- Put warnings on its packaging

- Distribute a cancer warning to recent product purchasers, including it with all future product shipments

- Alter the content of its web site and pay $600,000 in fees, penalties and costs associated with the lawsuit

- Retest products for smog-causing, volatile organic compounds at Department of Justice-approved laboratories, and work with the DOJ to ensure they comply with air quality regulations

Mike Brady, chief executive officer of GIB LCC, plans on following the attorney’s ruling, but will not alter any of the ingredients in the products, stating, “Brazilian Blowout will continue to sell its products normally throughout the state of California. The labeling and market and advertising changes agreed to in the settlement have already been in place for months.”

So, there you have it. The warning labels are being put into effect and hopefully the GIB company will follow suit.

Are you still going to get your Brazilian Blowout? Afraid of the chemicals? Don’t worry, check out our article about different alternatives with similar results here and here!

- Theresa Romano

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It’s the dead of winter (for those of us living in a colder climate). And we’re waiting for that moment when we can soak in that summer sun. But, with the talk of summer, come our admired beauty editors’ caveat about the usual summertime beauty/skincare protocol: the importance of sunscreen; articles describing the harmful effects of UVA and UVB rays, etc. It seems all too much and overplayed, but, let’s be prepared for the summer as I add one more vital, but often overlooked, piece of information to the seasonal lecture: protect your hair from the sun!

Thinking about protecting our hair from the sun is probably the last thing on our list, but there are certain advantages to protecting our hair. One is, yes, the obvious of that statement, that it will protect your hair from damage. Overzealous usage of heating tools are not the only enemies to healthy hair.  The environment and especially the sun can cause damage deep down at the root. David Evangelista, resident beauty expert on CBS’s The Early Show, says its important to create “a barrier from your hair to the sun.” He states the sun, “does damage to [the] cuticle and texture.”

The sun actually opens the cuticle and allows all the moisture to leave the strand causing dry, brittle, weak hair, not to mention it can also affect the color.  Not only does it affect color-treated hair but the American Academy of Dermatology has found that it can dull and alter the color for what we call “virgin”,  untreated hair as well.

There are many products on the market that can protect our hair from sun damage.  These products range from specifically engineered sunscreen for hair to shampoos and conditioners that contain an SPF like the Frédéric Fekkai Marine Summer Hair Collection – ranging from leave-in spray conditioners to shampoos. But my absolute favorite method to shielding your hair from the sun is a more natural approach, the scarf.  Every summer I embark on an epic journey for the perfect hat but always seem to come back to the same conclusion: a hat just does not work for me. Instead I choose to use a scarf.  It is true that a hat can protect your hair and the skin around your face and neck, but for those of us who somehow can’t quite pull off a hat, a scarf is a great alternative.

The scarf has been around for years and never seems to lose its luster or fashion appeal.  Style icons for decades have used it to disguise themselves, their dirty hair or just protect their hair from the effects of a relaxing day at the beach.  Some great ladies that often donned a stylish scarf were Jackie Kennedy and Sophia Loren. But even these days the newest generation of style setters, from Nicole Richie and Katie Holmes to the Olsen Twins, always have a scarf at their disposal. Whether on the beach or just out for a day of shopping, they seem to incorporate protection with  style.

So, the moral of the story is take a lesson from these ladies, mix style with versatility and protect yourself.  Beauty is definitely more than skin deep, but it helps to have a healthy head of hair and the style to let that beauty shine through! Have you tried the scarf look? Let us know, post a comment below!

- Yiannoula Choros

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Commonly used cosmetic ingredients

Here is a list of cosmetic ingredients that we come across in daily.

Vitamins

Vitamin A: It is known as Retinol. It normalizes skin’s texture and smoothes out fine lines. The more stable form is Retinyl Palmitate.

Vitamin C: The chemical name is Ascorbic Acid. It is an antioxidant, skin lightening agent, pH adjuster, preservative and also rebuilds healthy collagen fibers. It is also used in the form of Ascorbyl Palmitate ( a derivative of Vitamin C).

Vitamin E: It is chemically known as Tocopherol. It is an antioxidant, prevents UV damage to skin and also moisturizes skin.

Panthenol: It is nothing but Vitamin B5. It is a humectant.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids

Commonly used ones are citric acid, glycolic acid and lactic acid.

They aid in skin renewal by exfoliating the top layer of epidermis, improves skin’s texture, aids in better penetration of active ingredients, restores moisture and reduces wrinkles. They find use in anti aging products.

Salicylic Acid: It is a beta hydroxy acid. It is a debriding agent, helps in exfoliation of dry skin and reduces oiliness, acne and appearance of fine lines. It is mostly used in treating adult acne and chemical peels.

Humectants

Glycerine: It is a very commonly used humectant (ability to absorb moisture from air and entrap it into the skin). Hence, it hydrates and provides a skin barrier.

Hyaluronic Acid: It is a strong hydrating complex. It can hold upto 1000 times water in skin. It is commonly used in anti aging preparations for deep hydration.

Lecithin: It is a water attracting agent and hence hydrates and improves the texture of skin. It also allows the ease of spread onto the skin.

Silicones

Dimethicone/Cyclomethicone: It is a group of silicone molecules. It gives cosmetic products a smooth texture without blocking pores, gives slip and glide to products. It is widely used in skin care, make up, hair care and hair styling preparations.

Sunscreen Agents

Avobenzone, Mexoryl, Oxybenzone, Benzophenone: UV filters. They absorb or block UVA rays.

Titanium Dioxide: It is a physical UV blocker for both UVA and UVB.

Bleaching Agents

Hydroquinone, Kojic Acid: It is a skin whitening agent, skin bleaching agent.

Antioxidants: Resveratol, Butylated Hydroxy Toluene (BHT)

Preservative: Parabens, Benzoyl Peroxide

Soothing Agents

Allantoin: It has got skin calming property, soothing and healing agent.

Aloe: It is a natural and a very versatile ingredient. As its pH is same as skin, it is extremely soothing and protective in nature. It is a natural oxygenator (draws and holds oxygen to skin) so is a very effective healing agent. It is also a natural astringent.

Camphor: It is a cooling agent and hence alleviates itching, irritation and redness.

Olive oil

Emollients

Cetyl alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth 20, Cetearyl Alcohol: They are Emollient (lubricant), emulsifier (mix oil and water phases in a formulation)

Isopropyl Isostearate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Isopropyl Myristate: They are emollients and hence form a film on skin and penetrates easily into the skin. They are used in preshaves, aftershaves, shampoos, bath oils, antiperspirants, deodorants, creams and lotions.

Castor Oil: It is a barrier agent, emollient and a lubricant. It finds its use in lipsticks and moisturizer.

Jojoba Oil: It is very similar to human sebum and hence is able to effectively penetrate the skin. It is a moisturiser and a natural cellular renewal ingredient.

Avocado Oil: It is a skin conditioner and moisturizer that readily penetrates the skin.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride: It is a barrier agent, emollient and solvent used mostly in foundations.

Emulsifier:

Glyceryl Oleate, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Cocoate, Glyceryl Stearate SE: They all act as emulsifiers.

Glyceryl Cocoate is also a Surfactant (foaming and cleansing agent).

Glyceryl Stearate SE also gives pearlizing effect in shampoos and opacifier in creams and lotions.

Waxes:

Beeswax: It allows to blend oil and water components. It gives barrier mechanism to skin care and makeup products.

Candellila Wax: It is occlusive in nature and is used as a binder in lipsticks and creams.

Carnauba Wax: It is also a barrier agent and used as a texturiser in lipsticks, deodorant sticks and depilatories.

Kaolin: It is an oil absorbing powder and gives color and slip. It is mostly used in face masques for oily/combination skin.

Water: It is the most important ingredient in skin care and hair care products. Distilled, deionized or purified water is used in cosmetic preparations. It is the vehicle in most formulations.

Caffeine: Alleviates puffiness under eyes.

Lanolin Derivatives: Lanolin alcohol is used as a thickener for shampoos and bath gels. It gives cosmetics a creamy texture and high gloss. Lanolin oil is basically dewaxed lanolin and acts as a skin moisturiser and reduces stickiness of creams and lotions. It is found in hair conditioners, fingernail conditioners and skin cosmetics.

So did this dictionary of terms help you?  If you want help trying to understand what an ingredient is or what it does, post a comment below and we will try to help.

- cosmetic chemist, Upasana Sahu

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.. First, let’s get real for a minute: Chemical straighteners always do some damage to your hair.  Always. Even if the straighteners are better than they used to be. To say otherwise, well it’s like convincing yourself that because McDonald’s stopped making its French fries with trans fats, the fries are suddenly good for you. They are not. Now that we’ve cleared that up, here’s how the straighteners work: Certain chemical compounds raise the pH level of hair, lifting the cuticle and breaking apart molecular bonds called disulfides. This process allows the hair to be reshaped, i.e. straightened.

… The heat from a flatiron or blow-dryer can convert methylene glycol to formaldehyde, says cosmetic chemist Ron Robinson, founder and CEO of BeautyStat.com. You can read the rest of the article in the February issue of Allure magazine on newsstands now.

See more of our contributions to Allure magazine…..> HERE.

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It feels like every day something is different with my hair.  One day it’s frizzy, the next day it’s flat or it’s tangled, un-manageable, dry, blah, blah, blah.  Well, it occurred me that my hair might not be as healthy as I would like, but why would I even care? It’s just dead cells…right? Wrong! Healthy hair is more important than one would think; especially, if you want to be a contender for a celeb-worthy hairstyle.  Not only does a healthy head of hair look shiny, silky and overall gorgeous but also helps prevent against further damage from every day occurrences.

If you think how many times you over-brush your hair or use a heat styling tool it’s easy to see why hair could become damaged.  If you protect against this, not only will it grow faster and be more manageable but it will also become more resistant to further damage ie become stronger.  So now it’s time to really focus our attention on how to recognize the problem.

Damaged hair cuticle

The problem is truly the antithesis of the hair we crave.  We want silky hair, yet damaged hair lacks luster.  We want a full head of hair, yet damaged hair is weak and breaks.  We want easy-to-manage hair, yet damaged hair is unruly. The list goes on.

Healthy hair cuticle

Here is a list of common warning signs of damaged hair.

1)     split ends

2)     dullness

3)     brittle hair

4)     tangled

5)     breaks easily

A great indicator of damaged hair is how fast your hair dries.  Since damaged hair cuticles are often more porous, the hair will dry faster, not to mention soak up too much color when being colored and release it too quickly.  (Great reason to fix the problem, as those dye jobs are not cheap)

celebrity hair stylist, Derek Yuen

Derek Yuen, a celeb hair stylist and Sebastian Professional who has done the strands of ladies like Kate Hudson and Charlotte Ronson, says “split ends are the most common signs of damaged hair.”   He also warns that the best way to prevent this is to get a haircut every 8-12 weeks. I have been in Derek’s chair unbelievably frustrated with the frizz on my head, cursing the New England humidity, but he taught me the error of my thought.  He said that my hair had so many split ends they traveled up the shaft creating the frizz. He really helped me get my silky frizz-free curls back.

The truth is, the amount of damage will dictate when and if you should see your stylist.  If you feel that it has become a major issue, go see your hair stylist. One of the best ways to start the mend is a haircut.  Also a stylist will be able to tailor products and techniques to your specific hair type that will protect you from further damage.  

Olive oil

If you only have slight damage and want to try and fix this at home, Derek recommends using olive oil.  He says that olive oil, “has the smallest molecules and therefore can penetrate the cuticle layer to moisturize the hair.”

dermatologist Dr. Nicole Rogers

When you have a handle on the problem the next plan of action is to prevent future damage.  Damaged can be caused by a series of factors including the environment, but one of the most common is excessive exposure to heat and hair dyes.  I’m most certainly guilty of that as I cannot resist a blowout so I have begun to use heat protecting sprays.  Dr. Nicole Rogers, a dermatologist from WebMD says, “you can use styling products that contain silicone and dimethicone in order to coat and protect the hair cuticle.”  Derek also recommends using Sebastian’s Trilliant Spray before any heat use as it will protect the hair cuticle from damage. 

These days it seems that every issue has a quick fix, but sometimes they just don’t work.  Many products do not function because they are only treating the symptoms, not the disease itself.  In a world of diseases, damaged hair isn’t the worst, but if we can take “fussing with hair” off our lists it will free up time to fight all our other battles.

And don’t forget to check out our feature on How Often You Should Wash Your Hair and Find The Right Dry Shampoo For Your Hair Type.

- Yiannoula Choros 

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WHAT ARE DRY SHAMPOOS?  As much as we think dry shampoo is a new invention it has been around since the days of the ancient Egyptians to the 1970’s when people were always looking for those simple solutions.  What a dry shampoo actually does is use its composition of powders to soak up dirt and oil (instead of washing it away as with traditional shampoos).  This seems weird living in a culture where we find the need to oblige to that squeaky clean image, but dry shampoo goes beyond traditional shampoo.

celeb hair stylist, Oscar Blandi

Hairstylists like the famous Oscar Blandi, who has his own line of dry shampoo, use this product for almost everything.  He says it’s a great “pick me up in the afternoon” and that is helps create that always coveted “second day” hair.  This family of products comes in all formulas, colors and brands, but it definitely has uses beyond a quick clean.  These products add volume to limp hair after a long day or add texture to clean hair.  Texture is great for styling as the hair holds better … always a plus.

In its recent resurgence dry shampoo has been seen everywhere.  Jeanie Syfu the lead stylist for TREsemmé, even used dry shampoo at many fashion shows including Fall 2011 Charlotte Ronson.

Here she used the brands various types of dry shampoo to create that side swept look.

As awesome as dry shampoos are, they do have their limitations.  Though all straight and wavy hair types can benefit from them, some dry shampoo formulas can make curly hair very kinky. Dry shampoo on my curly hair does not give the same results as when I use it on my blowout, but it does have its benefits.  I am able to go longer between washes and refresh my blowout.  Less washing  = awesome hair with less damage and less time.  How great is that?

WHAT DRY SHAMPOOS WILL WORK FOR YOUR HAIR TYPE:  Now here is the hard part, finding one that works for you.  I do consider myself somewhat of a connoisseur of dry shampoos.  From the first time I heard about them,  I’ve been using them.  In fact, I’ve tried many of them .  My favorite is most definitely the Oscar Blandi Pronto dry shampoo.  This one has a great lemony scent and keeps my hair looking and feeling fresh and clean.  It also comes in a two forms an aerosol and a nozzle. I have tried both and prefer the nozzle, but both do work well.

Another great brand is TREsemmé.  They not only carry a dry shampoo for different types of straight hair but also one for curly hair.  After trying both I realized the one for curly hair is quite difficult to use, but my curly hair takes less time to style so I decide I can wash more often.  Some others include Label M and Klorane who boast celebrity fans such as Fergie and Leelee Sobieski.

For a 21^st century woman life is fast paced and often times too stressful.  This handy little product cuts down time and damage to your hair.  Given how long they last and the amazing results … who can resist this shower in a bottle?

Plus check out my in depth report on How Often Should You Wash Your Hair.

- Yiannoula Choros

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I recently was asked to try the HANAair Professional hair dryer and I have to admit I was definitely excited about the proposition.  I had often wondered whether if I had a professional blow dryer, would my hair turn out like I had just left a salon.

Deanna with hair in natural state

The Italian designed hair dryer features 2 fan speeds, 3 heat settings, plus a cold shot button that when pushed shoots out cold air.    It uses ion technology that works to condition hair and reduce static electricity.  The dryer has a strong AC motor and its lined ceramic heater dries your hair up to 60% faster while keeping your hair looking shinier and healthier.   It also has a two year warranty and is considered to be the best blow dryer by numerous consumers.

Deanna after using her regular blow dryer

The hair dryer came in a nice black box and I barely could wait to tear it out of the box and see how well it actually worked.  I have thick wavy hair that is always a challenge to blow dry straight.  The dryer had a sleek black design, that fit great in my hand, and was comfortable to hold and not very heavy.  It had simple buttons to operate and I liked the extra feature that offered a cold burst of air that worked to set your hair for the final touch.

Deanna after using the Hana blow dryer

It took less time to blow dry my hair.  With a normal dryer it took me anywhere from 25-30 minutes to dry and with the Hana, the time was cut down to 15.  My hair definitely turned out with a professional look and feel.  My long locks definitely looked like I had just walked out of a chic salon.

Deanna after using the Hana blow dryer

The only difference was I got the satisfaction of knowing that I did it myself, with help from my new friend, Hana.  I definitely highly recommend this dryer and think it would also make a great gift for the holidays.

Deanna after using the Hana blow dryer

It typically retails for $314.99, but it is available now on sale for just $194.99.  And note that the Hana brand also sells several other high quality hair dryers and flat irons.

And check out our photo review of the hottest Fall and Winter hairstyles HERE.

- Deanna Perl

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These awards celebrate the achievement of women in the beauty and cosmetics industry. Every year, the honorees are selected by their peers who pick just a hand full of execs who have made significant achievements.

This years recipients are a great mix of of women who all have different “backstories” and paths to the top of their field.

The honorees include:

- Gina Boswell, Executive Vice President, Unilever Personal Care NA

- Lisa Hawkins, Senior Vice President, Marketing, Education & Events, North America Dior Beauty

- Leslie Marino, General Manager, Kerastase & Shu Uemura Art of Hair, L’Oreal USA

- Barbara Zinn Moore, Senior Vice President, General Merchandise Manager, Cosmetics & Home, Lord    &  Taylor

- Ouidad, Founder, Ouidad

2011 CEW Achiever Award recipients: Ouidad, Leslie Marino, Barbara Zinn-Moore, Gina Boswell, Lisa Hawkins

One honoree particularly resonated with me because of her unique vision and creativity.  That would be none other than Ouidad who received The Great Idea Award.  She recognized that 70% of women have “textured” hair (with some degree of curl or weave pattern) and saw that that there were no hair care lines or treatments available to really care and maintain this hair type (given her natural corkscrew hair, this was truly personal as well).   With her eponymous hair care line and salon that opened 27 years ago, Ouidad is committed to addressing the unique needs of women with curly hair. In her acceptance speech, she told the audience that “women should embrace their curls”. Ouidad is a true pioneer and the undisputed “Queen of Curl”.

We congratulate Ouidad, Leslie, Barbara, Gina, and Lisa.  The world is a more beautiful place because of what you ladies accomplished.

- Ron Robinson, founder of BeautyStat

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Viviscal has been shown to thicken thinning hair and stop the effects of hair loss. It can help the texture of the hair to change and the hair feels healthier, heavier and fuller after regular use. People who are not necessarily suffering hair loss can also be benefit by Viviscal to achieve maximum rate of hair growth. Plus, it also has beneficial effects on skin and nails.

Viviscal works in four stages:

- Slows down and reduces thinning hair.

- Strengthens and promotes the growth of existing hair.

- Promotes growth of existing hair where it has slowed down or temporarily stopped- these hairs are thin and wispy at first.

Hair becomes stronger, healthier and more vibrant.

The following are the active ingredients:

AminoMarC Marine Complex Polysaccharides ( from deep sea fish): 

This is the main active ingredient. It is a blend of extracts from deep sea fish that comprises 22% fish proteins which increase the body’s natural production of keratin. It promotes existing hair growth, nourishes thinning hair and strengthens hair.

Acerola Cherry Extract:

Acerola Cherry has one of the highest natural sources of Vitamin C. It has antioxidant properties that increases the healthiness of hair follicle promoting hair growth.

Horsetail Extract:

It provides organic silica to strengthen and revitalize hair. It is commonly used to treat balding.

OVERALL ASSESSMENT:

Compared to prescription treatments, the ingredients in Viviscal don’t have any significant role in altering the growth cycle of hair. But the ingredients in Viviscal are nutritious and rich in proteins and vitamins and should work to help promote hair health, luster and volume to existing thinning hair.

FREE SAMPLES: Want to score a free sample of Viviscal? Check out our giveaway  HERE.